Rug Dye

Natural Dye
Natural dyes are derived from plant materials and insects such as indigo, madder, oak, sumac, pomegranate, cochineal and larkspur. Before the 1870s, they were the only source used to dye wool. Since the invention of synthetic dyes, there has been a great deal of debate about which type of dye produces a more beautiful and investment-worthy rug. Natural dyes tend to gently fade with time and therefore produce a sought after patina.

Aniline Dye
Aniline dyes are very acidic and often corrode the fibers in a rug. This type of dye was developed in the mid 1850s and is no longer used.

Acid Dye
Acid dyes are cheap to make, but the colors run.

Chrome Dyes
In the 1920s and 1930s, chrome dyes became a more reliable alternative to aniline. These synthetic dyes are more colorast and have a much wider spectrum of colors to choose from. Chrome dyes bind to the wool with potassium bicarbonate, which resists fading and does not weaken the wool. There are hundreds of chrome colors to choose from so many colors are possible that just cannot happen with natural dye.

Recap, making a hand made rug

Looking at posts can be at least a little confusing when trying to see them in order. So, here is a list of posts so far as they relate to making a hand made rug. This is pretty much the chronological process.

1. To See Rugs Made

2. Yarn for Rugs

3. Hand Knotting

4. Rug Washing Process

5. Washing to Drying

6. Drying and Sretching

7. More to do Before It's Ready

8. Wool and Silk

9. More Finishing

10. Final Finishing

Final finishing

One of these steps is fairly obvious as you can see binding or serging being applied. Note that on many machine made rugs this is a cloth or nylon strip that is sewn on but on a hand made rug, it is sewn one stitch at a time.

And now the fringe (or tassles). First, this is actually a part of the construction. It is the warp that runs from top to bottom. A few years ago it was common to see the fringe left 4 or 5 inches long but these day it is more common to see just an inch or two.

These warp threads are "gathered" into small bundles and tied together, often 3 or 4 at a time. The remaining length is then trimmed.

Now, thru nearly all of this manufacturing, it was men who were working. It was almost rare to find a woman involved in the process. (There were some in back in the pencilling area.) So to almost suddenly find a room with only women working on the rugs was a little bit of a surprise. And then to realize that they were not only finishing the fringe, they were also still clipping small spots over the rug. Incredible attention to the smallest details.

I observed to my host and guide, "I see that here in India it is the same as in the U.S." After his eyes got big I said, "The women clean up after the men."

The lady didn't reply but she sure grinned.

More finishing

A step that many of us haven't thought of before is called "penciling".

This involves carefully separating individual threads so that pattern and color details are more distinct.